Only Me

Eight days and more than 400 miles biking through Vietnam. No flat tire.
Ten minutes and two miles to the Saigon market where I want to sell my bike. Flat tire.

This type of thing would only happen to me. I had a few precious hours to sell my bike in Saigon before getting on a plane to Cambodia. On the way to an open-air market, I got a flat tire. Can you imagine trying to sell a two-wheeler with only one good tire???? I had no time or supplies to fix my bike, so I found somebody with a pump and inflated the tire for just long enough to unload it for $60. I felt a little bad as I high-tailed it out of the market on the back of a motorcycle-taxi; but then again the guy got a slightly used $100 bike for $60. I am just overjoyed to be getting out of this godforsaken country.

Lance Armstrong I am not

Today is the last day of biking in Vietnam. The three of us board a bus today-- Turek and Jemale bound for the southern coast and I for Saigon.

Vietnam turned out to be an overwhelming experience--both good and bad. Our bikes took us to rural Vietnam, where many of those born after the Vietnam War had almost certainly never met a foreigner. We were treated as celebrities. People dropped their farm tools to stare at us, brought their kids over when we stopped to eat (rice), touched us, invited us to spend nights in their home, freely fed us (rice), chased after us on bicycles, and shouted a million hellos to us. In eight days, we neither met a single English-speaker nor saw another foreigner. In that sense, the three of us felt like we saw the real Vietnam.

On the other hand, we had quite a few negative encounters. People tried rip us off in literally every single transaction, Turek and Jemale had things stolen from them, one Vietnamese held my backpack hostage on an isolated beach and threatened to kill us if we didn't pay him ransom (we gave him a tarp in the end), I got bitten by a masseuse, we ate the same meal all day every day, the weather was blazing hot (105), and I have lost all feeling in my ring and pinky fingers on both hands.

Finally, I found it emotionally difficult at times to be an American in Vietnam. We killed more than a million North Vietnamese (we met one person whose older brother was killed by an American bomb in the war), deforested large parts of the country, left behind thousands of tons of unexploded ordinance, and set the country back decades. Evidence of the war is still fresh: we spent three days riding on the now-paved Ho Chi Minh Trail; we explored the Vin Moc tunnels used by North Vietnamese soldiers; we biked through the demilitarized zone (DMZ) and crossed the Ben Hai River; and we saw dozens of war memorials/cemeteries that lined our route in central Vietnam. It is hard to be here and not think about our involvement in Iraq.

So I am hanging up the riding shorts and getting on a bus with my bike. I hope to resell the two-wheeler before Tuesday, when I fly onto Cambodia. Ciao for now.

Cycling Pictures

I have quite a few stories from cycling, but not enough time to draft a blog entry. In the meantime, the attached pictures should whet your appetite. Ẹnjoy.

Vietnam Bike Trip

Happy 60th Mom!

Congratulations on turning 60. I miss and love you. I have much more to say when I talk to you in a few minutes, but I thank you for giving so much of yourself to Aaron and I. Happy 60th.

What a $100 bike looks like

This is the kind of bike $100 will buy you in Vietnam (see picture on left). My pedal fell off on the first day of riding. Fortunately, we found a metal working shop in one of Vietnam's small towns. A few minutes later I was back in business.

Not a Happy Ending Massage

Does this stuff only happen to me??

On the second or third day of the bike trip, Jemale, Turek, and I decided to get massages because we were fairly sore. We found a reputable-looking place and were led into separate massage rooms. My masseuse was an attractive 20-something Vietnamese woman. As soon as she came in, she locked the door and stripped down to her underwear. I wish I had a camera at that point--not to take pictures of her but to capture the look of sheer terror I had on my face. I was honestly petrified. Speaking no Vietnamese, I waved and shook my head (perhaps frantically) indicating I didn't want the kind of massage she might be offering. She must have understood my gestures because the massage stayed G-rated. The other somewhat disturbing part of the encounter came towards the end of the massage when she placed a towel over my forehead and then bit, with all her jaw power, on the fold of skin between my eyebrows. It was all I could do to keep myself from jumping off the table and shouting at the still half-naked masseuse; I was in extreme pain. Let's just say it was not the world's most relaxing spa experience...

Anti-chRICEt

I will be happy if I never ever see a grain of rice again. I have spent 10 days in Vietnam and this morning was the first time that I had a meal that didn't have rice as a headliner. That means the last 35-40 meals I have eaten have been white, soft, and sticky. Rice, rice with tofu, rice porridge, rice whiskey, rice noodles, rice cakes, and on and on and on... Vietnam itself is one giant rice paddie with a few mountains. All the places we have eaten while cycling have two things on the menu: "com", rice with a few pieces of spinach or pig parts thrown in, or "pho", rice noodles in broth. I am dying for a pizza.

Travel Update

Jemale, Turek, and I have made it to Hue, an imperial city in central Vietnam, after 8 days of riding through the North. Although I originally had planned to cycle all the way to Saigon, I have had to revise my plans for two reasons:
1) We've only been averaging about 55 miles per day because we have stopped to see and do several things.
2) I thought Saigon was only 600 miles from Hanoi; it turns out it is over 1000 miles, impossible to do in 10 days.
I have another 5 days in Vietnam, and then its off to Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Century Club

This posting celebrates my 100th entry! I thought I would share with you just a few of the pictures from Hanoi and Halong Bay. Apologies, but I didn't have the time to upload very many pictures; you'll just have to wait for the rest. Turek, Jamale, and I are headed out. Enjoy.

Hanoi-Halong Bay

My New Ride

I thought you guys might want to see a picture of my new bike, the one I am going to spend the next 10 days riding.

Good Morning Vietnam!

I've gotten to Vietnam safely. The last two days have been spent in Halong Bay, one of the most beautiful (and tourist-filled places) I've been on this trip. Halong Bay contains 2,000 stunning limestone islands that jut out of aquamarine water. Tonight, Turek, Jemale (two Americans that I met on the slow boat in Laos), and I bought bikes for our journey south. We will spend the rest of tomorrow finalizing our plans (maps, tent, rope, etc.) and then head out.

Briefly, I've been shocked about how friendly the Vietnamese are to us. One would think that after the United States killed more than 250,000 Vietnamese, injured more than 1 million, and destroyed much of their country, the Vietnamese might--just might--hold a small grudge. We've had so many people come up to us, touch us, laugh with us, hug us, and just say "hello" to us, that I've truly been amazed. I have a hard time believing that an American visiting Iraq 30 years from now will have a similar experience, for two reasons: 1) Iraqis are going to have great difficulty forgiving us for the mess we've created and 2) Who would ever want to spend their summer vacation in Iraq?

I am not sure that I will have internet access on the road but I will be thinking about two things as I make the long journey south: Mom's 60th birthday (hopefully you will forgive me for broadcasting your age) next week, and my brother and sister-in-law's new baby, due the first week in August. These are momentous occasions and the thought of missing both weigh heavily upon me. Ciao for now.

Vietnam Map

I don't know if any of you find these maps useful, but I am going to continue posting them. I will fly into Hanoi, in northern Vietnam, and then spend one or two days at Halong Bay, in the northeastern corner of Vietnam.



I plan on doing something that I may later come to regret...I met another American on the slow boat to Luang Prabang. After talking a bit, we decided that we would meet in Hanoi, buy bicycles, and ride down the entire length of Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City--just under 700 miles--in 10-12 days. It will be a nice way to see the country, even if means the loss of my prostate. Will keep you guys updated.

Luang Prabang

I leave Laos this afternoon for Vietnam. Though my time in Laos was short (10 days), I've developed an affection for this country and its people. I've spent the last few days in Luang Prabang, in central Laos. The city was the capital of a Laos Kingdom for several centuries in the Middle Ages and then served as a provincial outpost during French colonialism. The city, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a nice blend of Buddhist temples and French colonial architecture (and bakeries!). Charming Luang Prabang has a laid back, river-town feel and serves as a nice departure point from Laos.

You can see a few more pictures from the city and its surrounding areas by clicking on the picture below.

Luang Prabang

Moby Dick

The white whale is no longer just Captain Ahab's nemesis; it is now mine too. I have been reading Moby Dick for the four months I have been travelling and I am not even halfway through it. Beautifully written but denser than a stack of IHOP pancakes, I've promised myself that I will finish the book before I get back to the States. Damn you Moby Dick, damn you.

Taxis Of the World Series--Part IV

South East Asia must have the greatest variety of taxis in the world. Luang Prabang, in central Laos, has several good ones. See below for three of them.

Circumventing Communism

I have discovered an internet cafe where Lao government controls haven't successfully blocked YouTube. By posting this video of the Gibbon Experience, I feel like I've done my part to defeat communism. (Click on the link below to see another person's video on one of the zip lines in Laos.)

Safe and Sound

Thanks to those of you who wrote emails over the past week asking why I hadn't posted and if I was safe. The Russian mafia--they play a big role in the opium trade--in Laos didn't abduct me. I was without internet access for the last few days. Enjoy the batch of latest dispatches below.

Slow Boat to Hell

For some idiotic reason, after doing the Gibbon Experience, I chose to float down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang on the "slow boat." The company actually advertises the boat as the "slow boat." Nowhere else in the world would a transportation company advertise its service as the "slow" anything. Imagine, Delta trying to sell its new "slow jet" service from New York to L.A. Amtrak ads for the "slow train" from Washington to New York. Greyhound commericals for the "slow bus" from Detroit to Chicago. Stupid, right?

This brilliant advertising scheme didn't stop nearly 200 people--myself included--from cramming onto a boat the size of a Honda Civic. Did I mention it was a two-day trip? And a hundred degrees? And smelly non-deoderant-wearing French passengers? And a bathroom that makes Ann Arbor's Taco Bell look sanitary? And no stops for food? Other than that, the "slow boat" was great. Next time I travel, I will look for the words "fast", "express", or "speed" before booking.

As always, click on the picture below to see more river pictures:

Mekong River Trip

Wild, wild west

Laos is somewhat of a funny country, a cross between the wild, wild west and Stalinist Russia. This country is one big open-air drug market. I've been offered openly marijuana, cocaine, opium, and prostitutes several dozen times in less than a week. The equivalent of neighborhood watches, but very well-armed ones, roam the streets in the evenings. At the same time, the Lao government imposes a very strict midnight curfew throughout the country. The contrast between illegal activities and the government's heavy-handed communist controls is comical.

A small story. Last week, a few of us were eating at a restaurant on Huay Xai's main street at about 10:30PM. Suddenly we noticed all the shopkeepers and restaurant owners on the street turn off their lights and pull down the metal grates in front of their establishments. Not more than 5 minutes later, a group of seven very serious looking men with rifles ambled down mainstreet. We were asked by our waitress/restaurant owner to hurry up and finish. We learned from our host only that there had been some "tension" in the town over the last few days--something about drugs, Thailand, and danger. After seeing the men with rifles, we didn't need any further encouragement; we were all back safely at our hostels within 10 minutes.

Though quite beautiful, I don't feel the need to stay in this country for more than a few more days....

Monkey (Don't) See, Monkey (Don't) Do

It was a bit sad leaving Thailand after three weeks and several special encounters there. I left Thailand by crossing the muddy, muddy Mekong in a canoe with an outboard motor and entered Laos at Huay Xai. A fellow traveller in Thailand told me that I had to do the Gibbon Experience when I arrived in Huay Xai. A Frenchman set up The Gibbons Experience (http://www.gibbonx.org/) two years ago to help preserve the Lao forests, in particular the Bokeo Forest Reserve. All profits help to employ local villagers, protect gibbons (a monkey species once thought to be extinct), sustain a ranger program to combat poachers, and prevent deforestation. The "experience" essentially consists of 8 tourists daily trekking through the muddy Lao jungle, flying across the jungle canopy on zip lines, and spending nights in a massive tree house 120 feet above the ground.

I was fortunate to have a great group of 6 Brits and a Canadian. We didn't have much of a choice but to bond over the three days: our sleeping quarters consisted of one open-air platform, our toilet was no more than a hole in the floor behind a curtain, we ate all our meals (sticky rice) together and we had no electricity/internet for a distraction. Though we didn't see gibbons--apparently nobody ever does--the trip was amazing. The zip lines were fast and long (one was 1/3 of a mile). The bamboo and surrounding jungle were picturesque. The leeches were violent but fortunately small. And the tree houses made you feel like a kid again.

I highly recommend the Gibbon Experience for anybody who might be traveling to Laos in the coming years (Jen/Iris?). One of the coolest things about the program is that the founder has refused all publicity--he has asked guidebooks not to list it, he has turned down requests for interviews, and the only reason he has a website is because his customers harassed him into making one. I hope you enjoy some of the pictures in the attached album. (I would post a YouTube video of a zip line ride, but the Lao goverment has banned YouTube.)

To see more pictures of the Gibbon Experience in Laos, click on the picture of me with a bear.

Gibbon Experience-Laos

Laos Map

I am posting a map of Laos for all of those who, for some reason, are unfamiliar with the country's geography...



I crossed the Mekong River from Thailand into Laos last week at Huay Xai, in the country's northwest. I spent three days trekking in the jungles several hours outside of Huay Xai and then floated down the Mekong for a few more days to Luang Prabang (center of the country).

Smells like teen spirit

If July 4th was zen-like, then July 5th was nirvana. It will be one of those days that I remember for the rest of my life. The day started off with me driving--my motorcyle again--to a rural temple on the Mekong River. The only monk there happened to have lived in San Antonio for a few years. We drank tea and spoke about Buddhism for several hours all by ourselves in the temple's great hall.

After the Buddhism discussion/lesson I got back on the motorcycle and drove further out into the countryside. I pulled over when I saw 20 Thai women working in the rice fields, meaning only to take a few pictures and briefly speak with them. I asked them to teach me how to gather and transplant the rice. They were absolutely astounded and I imagine that they were asking each other--they spoke ZERO English--what the hell a gigantic white man was doing in their rice fields. It was all fun and games for the first 20 minutes--then these ladies put me to work! Harvesting and transplating rice shoots is not easy.

I spent 5 back-breaking hours stooped over in the mud and water-filled plots. They were thrilled to have me and I was thrilled to be there working along side them. I harvested, transplanted, drove a tractor, sang songs, and got really dirty. Good times! I must have proven my worth because they invited me to a barbeque at day's end. (I have never eaten so many types of unidentifiable meat products--not even in hot dogs. Ugh.) We spent a few hours barbecuing and singing Thai (folk?) songs.

They still weren't through with me yet, and one of the families invited me to their house for dinner and whiskey. I lost count of how many marriage proposals I turned down over the course of that day. They insisted that I stay the night at their house, and only relented after I promised that I would come back to the rice fields the next morning. More smiles and hugs all around. If you want to see more pictures of my time with the rice farmers, click on the smiling woman:

Golden Triangle

Les Larves

Hey Aaron, how about maggots? Would you eat fried maggots? I can't imagine anything that sounds less appealing. Even stir-fried crickets sound better.

Zen-like

Yesterday, I entered a zen-like state that every backpacker dreams about. I woke up early in the morning in Chiang Rai and felt like being adventurous--Lonely Planet be damned. Speaking very little Thai, I got on a bus whose direction and destination I did not know. Being the only gringo, I got a lot of attention during the ride and fast made friends with half a dozen Thais. (I knew I was in when Seli gave me a wallet-sized picture of him.) I got off when the bus would not go any further.

Arriving in Chiang Saen, a border town on the Mekong, I found an old Thai woman with a guest house willing to put me up. From there I was able to rent a motorcycle (sorry mom) and drive all around the countryside. I would stop whenever I saw people farming or fishing and tried to impress them with the few Thai words that I know (hello, thank you, good, sun, rain, rice, horse, nine, beautiful, friend). There were huge smiles and laughs all the way around yesterday.

The other good news is that I am still able to find other places beautiful after being in Nepal. The countryside is gorgeous, and was what I came to south east Asia expecting to find. Rice fields dominate the landscape, interrupted only occasionally by lush mountains. The rain can be torrential but lasts only for a few minutes. The mighty Mekong is indeed mighty...and muddy. I am in my happy place.

The Best America Has to Offer

As promised, I was able to celebrate July 4th in Thailand the best way I know how. Slurpees and hot dogs (on a stick)!

The Flavors of Thailand

Chatukams are all the rage in Thailand. A chatukam is a pocket watch-sized medallion that Thais wear around their necks. The medallions usually have a religious symbol in their centers and they are worn for good luck. It seems that chatukams have become more a fashion, than a spiritual, trend. As I walk around and see the thousands of Thais and their chatukams, one image keeps coming back to me: FLAVOR-FLAV. People must think me a little strange as I look at them with a mile-wide grin, as thoughts of a washed-up-rap-star-turned-reality-tv-star dance in my head...

Happy 231st!

Happy Birthday America. You are the greatest country on earth. Wish I was there to celebrate and give you a big hug on this, your 231st birthday. I think I will get a hot dog and slurpee at a Thai 7-11 in your honor.

A few random pictures from Thailand

Here are some random pictures. Scuba in Koh Tao, Full Moon Party on Koh Pha Ngan, and Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. Enjoy.

Assorted Photos Thailand

Thailand Map

I just wanted to include a map of Thailand so that you can see where I've traveled. Bangkok (good food) is centrally located. Ko Pha Nagn (The Sanctuary and Full Moon Party) and Koh Tao (scuba diving) are islands in the southeast. Chaing Mai (more good food) and the Golden Triangle (opium) are in the north.

I hope to upload a hodgepodge of different pictures from Thailand in the coming days. But do know that I am having a blast.

Travel Update

Another Monday in Thailand. You know what that means.... Yep, yellow shirt day. Seriously, it is out of control.

Yesterday, I arrived in Chiang Mai, the biggest city in northern Thailand. (Another reason I love this country is because its cheap, cheap, cheap: 2 dollar haircuts, 1 dollar dinners, 50 cent cab rides, 6 dollar full-day moped rentals, and 50 dollar cross-country flights.) I came to northen Thailand to trek because it is far more mountainous than the south. However, after having been in Nepal, I couldn't bring myself to walk through the "hills" up here. In all seriousness, I hope that Nepal has not ruined my standards for what constitutes beautiful. So instead of trekking, I am going to explore over the next few days the "Golden Triangle". No, it isn't a seedy Thai massage parlor; it is the border region between Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos, made famous by endangered species smuggling and the opium trade. Thailand has all but stamped out the illegal activities on its side of the border so don't worry Grandma, I am safe!

I took this picture during a mountain bike ride on the hills overlooking Chaing Mai.

Jiminy Cricket!

My brother, Aaron, told me to be more adventurous when eating in Thailand. My question to him is, "would you eat these?????"

(By the way, they eat these things by the dozen here.)

Hieronymus Bosch

Well, the Full Moon Party met and surpassed all hype. It was complete debauchery. Its like what I imagine Mardi Gras to be, but on a beautiful beach and without all the dirty old redncecks. Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin (Running of the Bulls) is the only other party that I've seen with more intensity... Before you send me any emails, that is not me sleeping in the picture.

The legendary party takes place, suprisingly, every full moon. Fifteen thousand people from all over the world come to Ko Pha Nagn, an island in southern Thailand, to dance the night away on a small stretch of beach. The party started in earnest about 9PM and we danced and danced and danced. I didn't end up going to bed until 11:30AM. I saw everything over the course of the fourteen hour party: people juggling fire, the same guy getting hit over the head with two different beer bottles, lots of body paint, water fights, and lots of skin. The lower picture is the sun rising over the party (sorry it is a bit fuzzy but it is apt for this point of the party.) The good news is that I survived and I didn't have to go to the makeshift clinics like several hundred other people. The Full Moon Party is something that everybody should experience once in their lives.